Travel to France (30)

Travel to France (30) - Cote d'Azur

2023-06-09

Since collapse of Roman Empire and first barbarian Franks to raise banner of Christianity, France seems to have become promised land of God. Surrounded by sea on three sides, in addition to White Coast, Pink Coast and Silver Coast, there is also Cote d'Azur. If three coasts make landscapes of Atlantic more beautiful and colorful, then Côte d'Azur makes Mediterranean Sea colorful. The most famous coast of France is home to countless famous and unknown "frogs". They are beauty hidden in colorful robes of time and they are reason why I swim in Mediterranean.

I started from unknown "frog" port of Sète, drove along Mediterranean coast to lavender-smelling Rhone Valley, and then stopped at most famous "frog" Marseille. Because of greed for beautiful landscapes of Verdun Gorge, I drove away from Mediterranean coast and finally settled in another famous "frog" - Cannes. It was from here that I started traveling to Côte d'Azur in Mediterranean.

Côte d'Azur

The name of Côte d'Azur comes from novel of same name published by French writer Stephen Liègere in 1888. The coast starts from Toulon, starting point of Napoleon's campaign in Egypt, passes through Cannes, and stretches to Menton on Italian border, about 200 kilometers long, but essence is from Cannes to Menton. Stephanie once spent entire winter in Cannes and then used "Côte d'Azur" to describe its beauty. He wrote in novel: “The unique sunshine in Cannes is like a pearl in palm of sun. Golden sunlight blooms with economical smiles in noble hotels, malls, galleries and jewelry stores. Such luxury, It not only confuses a girl's dream, but also makes a lady's desire flicker on withered spring branches."

Since novel came out, name "Côte d'Azur" has been flying through branches and turned into a phoenix. Not only coasts of countless countries are named after him, but also a series in UK, and there is also a beautiful Chinese song called "Cote d'Azur". The song read: “Walking along blue shore, I lightly played guitar. You are next to me, with a gentle and bright smile. Such an intoxicating Côte d'Azur has been a resort for royalty and wealthy celebrities since 18th century and until today is gathering place for many of world's rich and famous people, as well as one of most luxurious and affluent areas in world, nicknamed "The Playground of Billionaires".

Côte d'Azur

Why is this sea so beloved by dignitaries? Why did this place become heaven on earth in their eyes? Because there is more sun here than anywhere else, because there is almost no winter here, because here Mediterranean Sea shines with silver-blue waves. The most important reason is that it was first persecuted by Russian and British aristocrats, and then, like a "herd effect", groups of wealthy and influential people were proud to rest here. When Côte d'Azur book became popular all over world, and Cannes International Film Festival became known to whole world, Côte d'Azur attracted attention of people all over world and became a tourist attraction for general public. In 2014, Côte d'Azur was ranked first among most suitable regions in world for investment in holiday homes, selected by International Real Estate.

Accompanied by rows of palm trees and dreamy sea water on Côte d'Azur, accompanied by colorful oleanders, I drove to Picasso's favorite town, 10 kilometers from Cannes City - Antibes . Born in Spain, Picasso, most creative and far-reaching artist in Western world, only knows how many places he loved in his life. But after his death, place where he left his footprints in France was advertised as his favorite place, and I don't know if Picasso agreed or not.

Antibes

It is possible that Picasso loved Antibes, otherwise he would not have come here twice, but created "Fisherman's Night in Antibes" when he first came here. In this work, he demonstrates a range of colors never seen before in his paintings. Dark blues and purples contrast with various shades of green, while strange blacks are lightened by yellows, a color combination that gives painting an eerie feel. The second time he was invited by owner of a private castle (Château Grimaldi) in Antibes, where he lived for six months and created a large number of paintings. Before taking it away, as a thank you, he gave owner of castle dozens of paintings, and now castle has been turned into a Picasso museum.

I can't appreciate paintings of this master, so I wasted my money on going to museum, I just want to appreciate in silence his unique silence and grace in this small city surrounded by walls in south of France. However, when I drove up to this castle built on Mediterranean coast, I couldn't find a parking spot. Helpless, I can only let my husband watch car again while enjoying beautiful scenery of Mediterranean. On Mediterranean coast there is a dazzling sun, blue sea and lush vegetation, but there are neither luxury yachts nor fussy tourists. After I found myself facing sea and wind, looking at endless blue sea, I got up and rushed to next stop - Provencal market of Antibes (Marché Provencal).

Antibes Castle

Antibes Market

There's also no parking space, so I stomped my foot restlessly. Suddenly, right after I drove outside city wall, I suddenly saw a parking lot. Near parking lot is port of Antibes. The harbor is packed with yachts. How is it possible that Antibes has over 300 days of sunshine a year? What about favorite of rich? Most of these wealthy people live in villas and luxury hotels stretching all way to Mediterranean. Every year during Cannes Film Festival, hotel hosts a grand celebrity party.

The Provencal market is located in old town of Antibes. The city was founded by ancient Greeks as a trading port in 5th century BC, while Antibes became a city during Roman Empire. The narrow streets are paved with blue stone slabs, and an old-fashioned atmosphere reigns everywhere. Although Provence market is praised as "flowing color, wafting aroma" and was once listed by CNN as one of "top ten best outdoor markets in world", we think it is very similar to Chinese farmers' market, with vegetables in it , fruits, flowers and seafood, as well as specialties such as foie gras, honey, ham, wine and cheese, as well as preserves and spices. It's just that characteristic woodcuts hang in market here, and at door was a statue of a general who led several important battles during French Revolution and eventually died of typhus in Antibes.

Walls of Antibes

Antibes Old Town

Port of Antibes

This little-known little town of Antibes once hosted oldest jazz festival in Europe, which is why city is revered as "father of European jazz festivals". Such heritage, combined with blessings of Hugo, Maupassant, Picasso and Monet, imbues it with a rich cultural and artistic atmosphere and a unique elegant and aristocratic charm with its blue sky and blue sea, a brilliant pearl. A British writer once described it this way: "Antibes is only place that has retained its soul, and only here can people feel at home."

While British writers described Antibes as an ideal place to live, this was not case for European high society in 20th century. There is a saying among these people: "Heaven is born in Cannes and dies in Menton." The reason is not only that it perfectly combines French elegance and Italian romance, but also because it is home to famous French writers Flaubert and George Sand, and also because of European royal families such as Napoleonic queen. III, Queen Victoria and Queen Billy built nursing homes here, and so many of those who suffered from incurable tuberculosis and depression at that time miraculously lived in Menton, where there are more than 300 days of sunshine during year. place", and also made it a health resort for the French.

Menton

Like Cannes, Menton on Côte d'Azur at first glance looks like a smaller copy of Cannes. The small town is also clean and refreshing, coast is also full of whitewashed buildings, beach is also full of people sunbathing, and luxury yachts also sail in Mediterranean Sea, but there are much fewer of them than in Cannes. . But unlike Cannes, lemons are very famous here, every February there is a Lemon Festival, they say that more than 100 tons of citrus fruits will be used for decoration and exhibition. The city also has many gardens and botanical gardens, which is why it has reputation of "Flower City" and "French Pearl".

Of course, this small town, built on a hill, differs from Cannes in that it is imbued with a passionate Italian style, as evidenced by many buildings with orange-red roofs and bright yellow outer walls on hillside. We love it as much as we love Cannes, they are "double star" of Côte d'Azur for us.

Menton

There is also a small town on Côte d'Azur, built on a sheer cliff by sea, called Eze, which is less than 20 kilometers from Menton. As a member of Côte d'Azur, Eze has been winter resort of Swedish royal family for over 30 consecutive years. However, unlike Cannes, Menton and Antibes, this mountainous city does not have large beaches, we can only stand on its top over 600 meters high to get a bird's eye view of Mediterranean Sea and most of Côte d'Azur. . The sea is still blue and luxury yachts are still moored, but only occasionally. However, winding, pedestrian-only streets and houses built in form of eagles nesting along alleys in small town of Eze are incomparable to other cities on Côte d'Azur. So, who built a small town called "Eagle's Nest Village" here?

Also ancient Greeks. It was built in 550 BC, half a century after Marseille, but more than half a century before Antibes. Today, most attractive thing in this mountainous city with a long history is “Nietzsche Trail”, left by famous German philosopher Nietzsche. Master Nietzsche visited this place twice and was greatly inspired by amazing world here, and he completed his important work, Also Sprach Zarathustra, here. This book is considered most brilliant gem in his writings, and path he often took to top was called by later generations "Nietzsche's path." Labyrinthine lanes and old stone houses entwined with green grapes attracted attention of American filmmakers as well; Oscar-winning film Catch a Thief was filmed here. And winding and steep road under cliff is called death passage, where Princess of Monaco died.

Eze's indulgent disposition is most suited to military strongholds. Historically, it was indeed used as a bunker by various dynasties that occupied site. Only King Louis XIV of France destroyed all walls surrounding small town. Following in footsteps of Master Nietzsche, we walked around this medieval quaint town and felt like it was like a "relative" of Côte d'Azur without a beach. However, walking along winding and narrow rocky road while enjoying natural sounds of green mountains and red flowers and feeling enchanting and unique scenery is also a wonderful treat for both scenery and people. The narrow medieval streets are lined with boutiques and studios converted by artists, and there is also a hotel (Chateau de la Chevre D'or) converted from a golden goat castle. uninterrupted azure coastline and sound of waves lapping against strange rocks in distance, such sea and sky make us feel refreshed. At top of the town is a paid Exotic Garden (Jardin Exotique), which was originally an indulgent military fortress, and was later destroyed by Louis XIV. Now it has more than 400 types of cactus gardens.

If Eze, Antibes and Menton on Côte d'Azur are not as famous as Cannes, then reputation of Nice (Nice) is exactly comparable to Cannes, capital of Côte d'Azur region. We booked a hotel here because of name of Nice. Our hotel is in city center and there is no parking place at all, I drove into a pedestrian street in a hurry and got so scared that I quickly found an alley and slipped inside. Although many say that Nice is one of main tourist centers in Europe and a favorite holiday destination on Côte d'Azur, in our eyes it is worst city on Côte d'Azur. Not to mention rough sand on beach, whole city is dirty, and luxury yachts are almost extinct, compared to Cannes and Menton, it is far behind. It seems that eyes of rich are still very "poisonous".

We wandered around medieval old town and found that there is Chinese fast food here, as soon as my husband saw it, Chinese stomach began to fuss a lot. Chinese food here is not expensive and delicious. Not far from Chinese restaurant is La Place Masséna, and not far from square is closed Romanesque cathedral Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. Passing them, we find Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas de Nice), built by Tsar Nicholas II. This church, paved with red brick, light gray marble and colorful terracotta brick, has become a very strange church in Nice with six onion domes.

Good

Basilica of Our Lady of Nice

Nice Russian Orthodox Cathedral

Leaving this church, we went to seaside street, there is a casino on this street, and you need to show an identity card or passport to enter. Opposite casino is most attractive place in Nice. Although quality of Nice Beach is not very good, there are a lot of people. As in Cannes, there is also a 5-kilometer Croisette on coast of Nice. This promenade (La Promenade des Anglais), built by British in 1820, also replete with beautiful flower beds and palm trees along way, is not only one of symbols of Nice, but also place that gives Nice most point in our eyes. Next to avenue is Bay of Angels (Baie des Anges), which has a very beautiful name, as it is shaped like wings of an angel.

We wandered along soft arms of Côte d'Azur, next to Angel Bay, under slightly salty evening wind of Mediterranean Sea, from sunset to sunset, thinking about "Twilight in City" by French poet Rimbaud: "Summer blue In dusk of night I walked through green , feeling coolness seeping into soles of my feet, I dreamed of a long wind, lightly touched top of my head, and boundless love gushed from the depths of my soul. Joy, as if with a woman.. ....".

Good embankment

Casino on Quays of Nice

Good Chinese fast food

Route

Good route

Travel to France (30) - Cote d'Azur

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